Wilderness Travels By Canoe

Part 4: In the Wake of Discovery: Downstream....for a bit.

Aug. 8, 1804"passed a island 2 miles above the litle Scouix R. on the upper point of this Isld some hundreds of Pelicans were collected, they left 3 fish on the sand which was very fine." Wm. Clark (Little Sioux River)

Aug. 11th, 1804"Capt. Lewis myself & 10 men assended the Hill on the L.S. to the top of a high point where the Mahars King Black Bird was burried 4 years ago. A mound of earth about 12 feet diameter at the base, & 6 feet high is raised over him turfed, and a pole 8 feet high in the Center on this pole we fixed a white flag bound with red Blue & White...;" Wm Clark (Near present site of Decatur, NB)

Sunday- 40 miles south of Decatur, NB. What I had thought were pulled muscles in my back for the last couple of weeks turned out to be much more. Prior to departing the Sioux City area on friday morning I visited Chiropractor James Bjork who generously offered to help me with my back pain. He quickly diagnosed several ribs out of place as well as my hip. After several adjustments I imeadiately felt better with less discomfort. (Thanks Dr. Bjork, I appreatiate it!)

I can remember clearly when I injured myself. I had pulled my boat through the shallow waters around a wing dike several weeks ago. Poor footing and improper lifting are a daily occurance along the river. While loading or unloading heavy gear bags from my boat the shoreline is often very muddy, rocky, and uneven creating challenges in trying to balance and lift at the same time. I have yet to have a flat, stable or firm area to pack my boat. Lewis & Clark may have had it slightly easier at times by laying out a wooden ramp from the keel boat to shore, but overall they had more gear (15 tons) which needed to be brought to shore at each camp. Since these men did not have the pleasure of a chiropractor to put bones back into alignment they probably all suffered from pain and discomfort. This constant labor may have been the reason for members Reed and LaLiberty to desert the expedition in the area I passed through on friday. Reed was caught and sentenced to run the gauntlent four times while each man with 9 switches hit him.

As I paddled on towards Decatur I pondered the thoughts of Corp. members catching over 1000 fish at what was to become known as "Fishing Camp". I can't imagine eating any of the fish caught from the river today considering all the chemical, fertilizers, pesticides, and herbicides washing into the river from the nearby farms. I'm sure for the Corp. members it was a nice change of pace from the heavy wild game diet they were eating.

The fast flowing river sped me past the yellowish clay bluffs known as the Loess Hill that lined the rivers west edge. The trees being all in full foilage provided a bright green backdrop to the otherwise plain landscape. The final bluff near Decatur is where the Mahars Chief Black Bird was buried in 1800 after dieing from small pox. Members of the Corp. had climbed the 300 foot bluff placing a pole and flag over the grave in 1804. Many gifts were also given to the Mahar Nation by the Lewis and Clark expedition whom they found to be very friendly.


I arrived near sunset in Decatur and pitched my tent in the city campground along the rivers edge. There was only one other camper located in the well kept park. It sat high overlooking the river and nearby bridge. I was told that it was going to rain the next day so I placed my tent next to the picnic shelter in case I needed some extra protection from the rain. Sure enough it rained and temperatures dropped to the 40's making an uncomfortable day in the tent. I managed to get a few supplies from the nearby market to help supplement what I already had. Decatur is the 2nd oldest town in Nebraska with a population of about 600. The town sits at the southern end of the Winnebago Indian Reservation. My visit to the coffee shop on Saturday proved to be the gathering place for the community. A table of men in their 60's talking politics, while 1/2 a dozen well groomed gray haired ladies discussed "so and so's" grandkids. The young waitress managed to keep a smile while serving all 40+ people piles of biscuts and gravy and hot coffee. After breakfast I retreated to my tent while the rain beat down for hours. I bought a local newspaper which quickly became damp in my tent from all the rain pounding down.

Sunday provided a hint of sunshine with many lingering dark clouds. By the time I loaded my boat I felt I had a good chance at having sun all day. With the fast current I counted off each blue mile marker sign and covered nearly 40 miles to the large sand bar across from the Tyson Island Wildlife Area. My camp lies only a mile from Lewis and Clarks camp of August 5, 1804. The river today being more straight and less crooked as it was for the early explorers. In many places the original channel is nearly 4 miles inland on what are now tilled fields ready to be planted with corn. My last calculations put me arriving back in Boonville, Mo about the 10th of May.

July 12, 1804"after and early brackfast I with five men in a Perogue assended the River Ne-Ma-Haw about three miles to the mouth of a small creek on the Lower Side, here I got our of the Perogue, after going to several small mounds in the leavel plain, I assended a hill on the lower side, on this hill several artificial mounds were raised, from the top of the highest of those mounds I had an extensive view of the serounding plains, which afforded one of the most pleasing prospects I ever beheld..." Wm Clark(Near Fortescue NB)

July 14th, 1804"at half past seven, the atmosphere suddenly became darkened by a black and dismal looking cloud…in this situation the storm which passed over and open Plain from the N.E. struck the our boat on the Starb. Quarter, and would have thrown her up on the Sand Island dashed to pices in an Instant, had not the party leeped out on the Leward Side and kept her off with the assistance of the ancker & Cable, untill the Storm was over, the waves washed over her windward Side and she must have filled with water if the Lockers which had notbeen covered with tarpoling & threw of the water & prevented any quality getting into bilge of the Boat" Wm Clark(Present site of Nishnabotna)

July 15, 1804"I proceeded on thro those praries several miles to the mouth of a large creek on the L.S. called Nema har this is a small river" Wm Clark (Site of Little Nemaha River)July 18, 1804"Saw a dog nearly starved on the bank, gave him some meet, he would not follow, our hunters killed 2 deer today" Wm. Clark

July 19, 1804"passed some high clift 4 1/2 miles above the islands on the L.S. of yellow earth passed several sand bars, that were wide and at one place verry shallow, Two beautiful runs fall into the river near each other at this clift." Wm Clark (Site of Nebraska City, NB)

April 30th
Thursday- Downstream from Brownville, Nebraska: Sometimes if you look at a certain situation for a moment, it often seems surreal. This is in reference to the past few minutes here at my camp. I just finished dinner on a muddy sandbar; in the distance an owl hoots from the nearby trees, a squirrel chatters dissatisfaction at something, while the low droaning hum of the Cooper Nuclear Station sits just upstream from my camp. To add to this, I just tried to make a phone call to Churchill Clark ( 5th great grand-son to William Clark) with my satellite phone. I was able to do all of this within a mile of the July 15th, 1804 encampment of the Lewis and Clark party. I almost feel as if I am living in two centuries at once, the nuclear age and the buckskin age. With all the high tech gear I have, I get lost in the hustle of the 21st century only to drift back in time when all the equipment is put away and all I have is my paddle and my boat to drift along. I paddled 60 miles today under heavy clouds from Plattsmouth to Brownville, Nebraska.

Thursday I had been wind bound while 4-5 foot whitecaps were rolling upstream on the river. Mile after mile I pass small creeks, rivers, thick forest, with names like Papillion Creek, L'Eau qui pleure (Water which cry's), Platt River and Nishnabotna Creek. Many still hold the names given to them by Lewis and Clark while others have been changed. The place where these bodies of water empty into the Missouri all look the same. The Army Corp. of Engineers has altered each one of the streams, rivers and creeks. Most have the appearance of a man made ditch. Often, for miles they are perfectly straight with their banks smooth and sloping at a 35-degree angle into the river. Atop grows a thick coat of lush green grass giving the appearance of someone's front yard. As the current carries me along often unnoticed by anyone on shore, I pass other landmarks of the industrial age. Bellevue Power Plant, Missouri Portland Cement Co., American Commercial Marine Services, Council Bluffs Water Intake, Northern Natural Gas Co., Farmland Industries, Farm Crops Corp., Terminal Packaging Corp., Iowa Power and Light Co. These large ominous looking buildings seem out of place, out of context. All seem to emit their own sounds and smells as I pass. Occasionally a pipe leads directly from the building to the water where brackish yellow colored water dumps into the Missouri. Moments like these I know I am living in the 21st century while a mile further downstream finds me drifting back in time gazing at the hillsides to see huge old growth cottonwood trees that I know watched the Corp. of Discovery when they passed by two centuries before. While wind bound Thursday in Plattsmouth I came across the Canoe Outfitters Store on Main Street. I was surprised there would be much of any interest in canoeing in Nebraska. Denny Lange the young manager of the well-stocked store hopes to increase people's interest in water sports not only on the Missouri River but elsewhere in the state. By showing people there is something enjoyable or constructive to do on the river they may lean to appreciate its value and learn that it's not a place to toss garbage into. I agree with him completely. I witnessed several people at the boat ramp who would toss their beer cans into the river when finished. It seems that many people are led to believe that that is what you're suppose to do. I like to think of a river as like the veins in your body, supplying your organs with nutrients. If you mistreat your body by poisoning it with chemicals and garbage then the body will eventually give out or you will end up with some disease. The same goes for the rivers. But if you take care of them and respect the vital importance of their health, then we as a country will be much better off. Denny is one of the few people I have met who makes a point in picking up trash along the river while so many are adding to the problem. I visited with him at his store for several hours looking over the many nice canoes and kayaks on display. It was a nice change of pace talking with someone who also values our rivers. Denny stopped by the boat ramp where I was waiting out the high winds along with local newspaper reporter Melissa Breazile-Enz who interviewed me for an upcomming story to be featured in the paper.

As I drift off to another nights sleep (7:53pm), a deer snorts in the woods near my tent. It probably is disturbed from the glowing light from within the tent. The hum of the nearby Nuclear Plant slowly puts me to sleep.

July 12, 1804"after and early brackfast I with five men in a Perogue assended the River Ne-Ma-Haw about three miles to the mouth of a small creek on the Lower Side, here I got our of the Perogue, after going to several small mounds in the leavel plain, I assended a hill on the lower side, on this hill several artificial mounds were raised, from the top of the highest of those mounds I had an extensive view of the serounding plains, which afforded one of the most pleasing prospects I ever beheld..." Wm Clark(Near Fortescue NB)

July 14th, 1804"at half past seven, the atmosphere suddenly became darkened by a black and dismal looking cloud…in this situation the storm which passed over and open Plain from the N.E. struck the our boat on the Starb. Quarter, and would have thrown her up on the Sand Island dashed to pices in an Instant, had not the party leeped out on the Leward Side and kept her off with the assistance of the ancker & Cable, untill the Storm was over, the waves washed over her windward Side and she must have filled with water if the Lockers which had notbeen covered with tarpoling & threw of the water & prevented any quality getting into bilge of the Boat" Wm Clark(Present site of Nishnabotna)

July 15, 1804"I proceeded on thro those praries several miles to the mouth of a large creek on the L.S. called Nema har this is a small river" Wm Clark (Site of Little Nemaha River)

July 18, 1804"Saw a dog nearly starved on the bank, gave him some meet, he would not follow, our hunters killed 2 deer today" Wm. Clark

July 19, 1804"passed some high clift 4 1/2 miles above the islands on the L.S. of yellow earth passed several sand bars, that were wide and at one place verry shallow, Two beautiful runs fall into the river near each other at this clift." Wm Clark (Site of Nebraska City, NB)

July 4th , 1804"Came to on the L.S to refresh out selves & Joseph Fields got bit by a snake,which was quickly doctoered with Bark by Cap. Lewis. Passed a Creek 12 yds wideon the L.S comeing out of an extensive Prarie reching within 200 yards of the river, as this Creek has no name, and this day being the 4th of july the day of the independence of the U.S. call it 4th of July 1804 Creel, we dined on Corn Capt. Lewis walked on shore above this Creekand discovered a high Mound from the top of which he had an extensive View, 3 paths concentering at the mound Saw great numbers of Goslings to day which were nearly grown, the before mentioned lake is clear and contain great quantities of fish and Gee & Goslings" Wm Clark (At present day Atchison Kansas)

July 9, 1804"Camped at a point on the L.S opposite the head of the Island, our party was incamped on the Opposite side, their not answering our signals caused us to suspect the persons camped opposite to us was a War party of Soux" Wm Clark (Near Present Wolf River KS)

Sunday May 2- Between St. Joseph and Atchison. What was once an island in the middle of the Missouri comprising of about 8000 acres according to William Clark in his journal the Nodaway River empties near what was once the head of the island. Today the land is not divided by the river but forms one main channel. I saw two men standing on shore just below where the Nodawayempties in the Missouri. I approached in my boat and yelled up to them asking if there was a place to get some drinking water. The wind was blowing rather briskly and they yelled back saying that they could not understand me. I paddled up to the dock and repeated my question. They motioned to come on up which I did carrying two empty gallon jugs for water. A dozen camper trailers lined the shore and smoke from the nearby fire dispersed quickly into the wind. About eight friends greeted me with a hot cup of coffee. Gary & Diane Wade and their friends come every weekend to camp and have a good time on their boats and to spend time around the fire at the rivers edge. I told them about my trip and they brought up a story or two of others in the past that were paddling the riverand had stopped too. They said a man and his daughter camped there and were traveling the entire river a few years back. Unfortunately I didn't write everyone's name down but one woman called the local Channel 2 News people who were very interested in an interview. I told the news people on the phone I would meet them downstream in an hour or so once I left "Camp Nodaway".

Every 15 minutes a micro blast storm would blow through pelting us with wind and hail. After my second cup of coffee I headed out but was tempted to stay near the warm fire. After an hour of paddling I began to watch for the Channel 2 News women on shore. I was to meet her at the Sunset Grille but since I'd never been there I had to keep my eyes focused on the shore for the Grille. I soon spotted the tripod and camera and pulled my boat in near the boat ramp. The interview was rather challenging since another wicked blast of hail and wind forced us to retreat inside the restaurant where we finished the interview. I'm not very comfortable with "on the spot" questions but did my best. I appreciated the exposure for my journey and hoped maybe my story will get people excited for the upcoming Lewis & Clark Bicentennial which will be huge here in St. Joe. I paddled through town without stopping since there is no easy access from the river. Since the days of Lewis and Clarks passing many major historic events have taken place here. The early pioneers departed in covered wagons heading out on the Mormon and Oregon Trail. Galloping horses headed west-carrying bags of mail on the Pony Express trail. What will another100 years bring to the speed of communication and transportation?

This past Friday (April 30) I arrived in Rulo, Nebraska before the Post Office closed at 4pm. My girlfriend DeeDee had shipped two weeks worth of food there the week before. Since I was delayed early in the week due to weather I was really hoping to get to Rulo on Friday or I would be forced to wait till Monday in order to pick up my package. Rulo is a very small town. There is only 3 businesses besides the Post Office, all bar & grills. The population is not more than 100 and comprises of mostly retired farmers and railroad workers. Rulo was once a busy riverboat community in another era almost forgotten.I set up my camp at the town boat ramp for the night. I grabbed a quick bite at the Ole Time Saloon, which is more of a restaurant than a saloon. It was also the entire towns meeting place for dinner that night. As new people entered in from the street, they would obviously give me a second look as I'm sure an unfamiliar face eating in "their" restaurant surprised them. I sat at the bar drinking several cups of coffee with the bartender who goes by the name of Babe. His blaze orange shirt would sometimes distract me from his wise cracks and stories about the town fights that took place years ago. Babe took an early retirement to take care of his father who was ill at the time and now works part time for the three ladies who own the place. Upon receiving my new shipment of food, it took a little extra time trying to make it fit into my food bags. Grains, pasta shells, nuts, jerky and soup mixes can be very bulky taking up valuable space in my already packed boat. After a week of consuming what I brought I will discover plenty of new spaces only to be filled again at my next food drop. The large sandbar I am camped on is also the resting place for piles of driftwood. When the water is high the trees and logs get washed get washed down from above only to get hung up on the shallow areas downstream. The further I get into the state the more mud I am again encountering. Between the waters edge and the dry sand there is a section of about 10 feet of mud to wade through, often deep! Many bird and animal tracks are encased in the mud and will soon disappear after the next high water or rain. Tracks of the Great Blue Heron, Canada goose, Beaver, Raccoon, and human make their mark in the dark gray mud. With the constant exposure to mud, blowing sand, river water and dampness my clothes are in need of washing. Sometimes my daily goals are simple. On Monday it is to find a laundry in Atchison, Kansas. Atchison is home to the "Atchison-Topeka-Santa Fe" railroad and aviator Amelia Earhart.

May 5-8, 2004
May 5th
The past week was like paddling through the history books. Each town with its own story. In Atchison, KS I stopped for a brief visit at Amelia Earhart's birthplace perched high overlooking the Missouri. Whatever happened to her we will probably never know. Leavenworth, KS I passed along the famed military prison used for years to house military criminals. As I plodded along the silt laden river under humid skies, I had thought of Mark Twain piloting a steam paddle wheeler dreaming up stories of his own. It was very humid yesterday and in the high 80's. I was feeling very tired from the heat and not too thrilled about paddling but pressed on regardless. I reached the site of Fort Osage and climbed the high bluff. This fort was constructed in 1808 on orders of William Clark a few years after he returned from his expedition. The people were all dressed in cloths of the early 1800's and for a moment I felt I too had stepped back a couple of centuries, only to realize I was still wearing my hot life jacket and rubber boots. The reaction by the nice women there, was obvious I also needed a shower. I stunk bigtime!!

I have made quick time to Lexington, Mo a nice little town with 1800's style buildings. Lexington was the site of the 1861 Civil War battle called "Battle of the Hemp Bales" in which the south won and gained control of the Missouri River. A confederate cannonball is still lodged into the tall pillars of the country courthouse just like it was placed there by a southern soldier. I should arrive in Boonville about Monday the 10th. The weather is suppose to hold until Sunday when rain is expected.

June 19, 1804" I observed on the shore Goose & Rasp berrries in abundance in passing some hard water round a point of rocks on the L.S. wewere obliged to take out the roape & Draw up the Boat for 1/2 a mile, we came too on the L.S. near a lake of the sircumfrance of severla miles, situated on the L.S. about two miles from the river this lake is said to abound in all kinds of fowls, great numbers of deer frequent this lake dureing summer season, and feed on the bows" Lewis

June 19, 1804"passed a creek on the L. Side Called Tabboe 15 yds wide… we came too on the L.S. near a Lake of the sircumfrance of several miles, situated on the L.S. about two miles from the river this lake is said to abound in all finds of fowls..." Wm Clark (Present Tabo Creek and Hicklin Lake, MO)

June 20th, 1804"My servent York nearly loseing an eye by a man throwing sand in it..." Wm Clark" We took some loner observations, which detaind us until 1 oclcok a butiful night but the air exceedingly damp, & the Mosquiters verry troublesome"June 21, 1804Two men sent out to hunt this evening brought in a buck and a por turkey." Wm Clark

June 24, 1804"Passed the mouth of a creek 20 yds. wide named Hay Cabin Creek from the Camps of Straw built on it"Wm. Clark (Present day Little Blue River)

June 27th, 1804"a fair morning, the river rose a little last night, we determine to delay at this place three to four days to make observations & recruit the party, several men out hunting, onloaded our Perogue, and turned her up to dry with a view of reparing her after completing a strong redoubt or brest work from one river to the other, of logs & bushes six feet high,The Country about the mouth of this river is verry fine on each side as well as North of the Mossourie" Wm. Clark (Present day mouth of Kansas River and Kansas City)

June 28th, 1804"This river receves its name from a nation which dwells at this time on its banks & has 2 villages one about 20 leagues & the other 40 Leagues up, those Indians are not very noumerous at this time, reduced by war with their neighbors" Wm. Clark (Present site of Kansas City)

June 29th, 1804"Ordered- A Court Martiall will set this day at 11 oclock, to consist of five members, for the trial of John Collins and Hugh Hall, Confined on Charges exhibited against them by Sergeant Floyd, agreeable to the articles of War.John Potts to act as judge advocate. The Court Convened agreeable to order and preceeded to the trail of the Prisoners Viz John Collins Charged 'with getting drunk on his post this Morning out of whiskey put under his charge as a Sentinal, and for Suffering Hugh Hall to draw whiskey out of the said Barrle intended for the pary.' To this charge the prisoner plead not guilty. The Court after mature deliberation on the evidence adduced etc,are of oppinion that the prisoner is guilty of the charged exhibit against him, and do therefore sentence him to receive one hundred lashes on his bear back." Wm. Clark

May 6th, 2004
How many miles do I travel each day? That question comes up quite often from people along the river. I average about 6-7 miles every hour. So if I paddle a 6-hour day then I should cover about 36 miles. I have been paddling closer to 45 on average with one day covering 60 miles. Once I complete the section from Yankton, S.D., to Boonville, it will be on slower water for over a month. Most of the Missouri River through the Dakotas is more like a lake than a river. The water held back by the hydroelectric dams is often several miles wide, very deep and without any current. The maps (charts) I have been using are the U.S. Army Corp. of Engineers Navigational Charts. They contain probably too much information for a lone paddlers like myself but are ideal for a big boat especially the tugs which travel the river. Each map covers a distance of about 8 river miles. I often use 6-8 maps a day for the section I paddle. These charts show the main channel, which usually has the fastest current. They also show the "wing dikes" (my good friends). Every dike is listed. What I like about this fact is that usually on the inside of every river bend, and behind or below each dike is usually a sand bar sometimes large enough for my tent. Many however are too muddy, underwater, or the ground is too uneven. The water behind these dikes is always lacking any current and they protect my camp area from any wakes created by other boats especially the big tugs. These sand bars are sort of like having your own personal lagoon and beach to camp on. I also have with me a set of reconstructed maps drawn by William Clark. These maps also show Clarks compass bearings and miles traveled. Martin Plamondon compiled this set of maps. The river has changed its course many times since Lewis and Clark passed through. The Army Corp. Of Engineers have also restricted the rivers natural desire to meander. What I like about Plamondon's maps it that they show the general area where the expedition set up each of their camps. In many places, L&C camps are now far from water due to the river having changed its course over the years. I am typing this from what was called the "Rope Camp" in the Lewis and Clark Journals. They stayed here several days starting on June 17th, 1804. The river actually flowed a little more to the west of where I am. The members of the expedition spent several day making rope (600 feet) as well as 20 new oars for their boats. They mention that the ticks and mosquitoes were bad. I have found several ticks crawling around and a few mosquitoes too so far.


I place my maps that I use for each days travel in a clear flat map case. I then set them directly in front of me on the floor of my boat so that I can glance down to see where I am. The rest of the maps are stored away in waterproof bags to be used later in the week. I do not need a compass to aid in navigation. In fact I could probably paddle almost the entire river without a map. It is very straightforward. Remember, the L&C Expedition did not have any maps of the route to the Pacific. They made their own as they went.

I made it past Kansas City yesterday. It started out to be challenging when I encountered 3 barges within 10 minutes. Once was so loaded with sand and gravel that it was almost entirely submerged as it passed by me at over 20 mph leaving a 5-foot wake in its path. Commercial jets circled overhead waiting their turn to land at the nearby airport. The highways buzzed with the early morning commuters and the tall skyscrapers reflected the already too hot sun as I passed under the Union Pacific Bridge as a 500-ton train clattered overhead. The Kansas River added its share of water at a 90-degree angle bend in the Missouri River. It was here that the L&C expedition camped for several days making lunar observations to determine their latitude. As I began my day by breaking my sunglasses, I ended it with a snapped tent pole. Both repaired with duct tape. Tired, warm, and in bed by 9pm. Another hot day in store for tomorrow. Take Care, Mile 293 Somewhere near Waverly.

June 8, 1804"passed the Mine River at 9 miles this river is about 70 yards wide at its mouth and is said to be navigable for Perogues 80 or 90 ms." Wm Clark (Present Lamine River, MO)

June 13, 1804We set out early passed a round bend to the S.S. and two Creeks called the round bend Creeks between those two Creeks and behind a small willow island in the bend is a Prarie in which the Missouries Indians once lived..." Wm Clark (Near Brunswick, MO)

June 14, 1804"we passed a creek above the Bluff about 18yds wide, this creek is called Snake Creek, a bad sand bar just below, which we found difficullty in passing & Campd above." Wm Clark (Near Miami, MO)

June 19, 1804"passed a creek on the L. Side Called Tabboe 15 yds wide...; we came too on the L.S. near a Lake of the sircumfrance of several miles, situated on the L.S. about two miles from the river this lake is said to abound in all finds of fowls..."Wm Clark (Present Tabo Creek and Hicklin Lake, MO)

June 20th, 1804"My servent York nearly loseing an eye by a man throwing sand in it..." Wm Clark" We took some loner observations, which detaind us until 1 oclcok a butiful night but the air exceedingly damp, & the Mosquiters verry troublesome" Wm Clark

June 21, 1804Two men sent out to hunt this evening brought in a buck and a por turkey." Wm ClarkJune 19, 1804" I observed on the shore Goose & Rasp berrries in abundance in passing some hard water round a point of rocks on the L.S. we were obliged to take out the roape & Draw up the Boat for 1/2 a mile, we came too on the L.S. near a lake of the sircumfrance of severla miles, situated on the L.S. about two miles from the river this lake is said to abound in all kinds of fowls, great numbers of deer frequent this lake dureing summer season, and feed on the bows" Lewis

May 9th
Under temperatures in the high 80's and 90% humidity I put my mind and body on autopilot as I glided downstream towards Glasgow, Mo. Sixty seven miles and 11 hours from my previous night's camp I limped into town about 6p.m. A very difficult day but one highlighted by two interesting encounters. As I paddled away from the sandbar I had spent the night on and staying fairlyclose to shore in the fast current, I spotted movement next to the waterline. I couldn't believe what I was seeing. There, casually walking along the rocks sniffing out signs of fresh deer was a mountain lion (sometimes called cougar or puma). I had no idea there were any in Missouri, and have never seen one in the wilds before. I steered my boat closer to shore trying not to make a sound. I was as close as 50 feet of the big cat without it ever knowing I was there until I drifted upwind where it picked up my scent. I had watched it for about 30 seconds wishing I could get my camera, but for fear my movement would shorten my sighting, I sat there motionless. Personally this animal is one of my favorites. I drifted past for several minutes before it sunk in what I had just seen. As I paddled mile after mile in the intense sun I was once again moving with the fast current within 20 feet of shore when suddenly I spotted another "cat'! This sighting dumbfounded me, not because it was my 2nd for the day but by its appearance. This large cat had big brown spots around its face and underside. It resembled a leopard in Africa. A few things instantly ran through my mind. "Is it a domestic cat? Do some mountain lions have spots? Was it a bobcat? Did a cat escape from a circus?" It was extremely large to be a domestic cat but the spots made me confused. It was the exact same shape as the one I saw earlier but about 20 pounds lighter.(The first was about the size of a large Labrador dog and the other a little lighter) It had short tight woven hair like a leopard (or mountain lion). I was only 30 feet from it and didn't move while the current carried me past this docile animal. When it finally saw me it sort of turned its body in a twisted form the way a dog does when you hit it with a newspaper. I could see its big brown eyes staring me in the face. I was close enough to both cats to easily see they had very long whiskers. It finally ran up the bank in cat like form disappearing over the top of the bank. When I got to Glasgow I inquired about "wild cats" in the area and several people mentioned they are often seen in the area I passed through. They also said the Missouri Fish and Game does not want to admit they exist in the state. I plan to look into this matter more especially regarding the spots.

The country in which I have been traveling through the last day was very abundant in wildlife for the members of the Corp of Discovery. Both deer and black bear were killed providing the members with plenty of meat. The tracks of the deer are by far more numerous today than an actual sighting. My camp in Glasgow is situated on Stump Island. Lewis and Clark mentioned this island in the journal and that there were many petrified stumps when they passed through in June of 1804. Many of the solid rock stumps are still visible and situated where the town has their soccer fields. I stood and watched young children kicking the soccer ball towards the defended net while wondering what Lewis and Clark thought of when seeing these ancient tree stumps turned to stone over time. I soon will be in Boonville having covered the first 800 miles of the Missouri River. There will be a slight delay in my updates while my friend Stan Hanson drives me back to Yankton, S.D. From there I will paddle up the remaining 1500 miles to Dillon, MT. Jamie Robinson with Corecomm who has been helpful in posting my information on the web site will be away for a few days towards the end of the week. I hope to send one brief update from Boonville and then continue again in about a week. I'm looking forward to the Dakotas as well and my home state of Montana.

May 10th ,2004
The old steel railroad bridge came into view as I approached Boonville, Mo. I have mixed feelings about completing the first 800 miles of the Mighty Missouri. Although I opted to paddle a portion of the river "downstream" for personal safety reasons, it was all very challenging. I have enjoyed the people I've met and the quaint towns I have visited but I am looking forward to reaching Montana by June. Life on the river can be very boring for most people. Sometimes each bend in the river looks like the previous one giving you the sense that you are staying in one place and not making any progress. Other times the heat and humidity drain you of energy and you find yourself actually nodding off to sleep. Then there are the wonderful people and towns along the way that distract you from the difficult moments. I have met many friendly and interesting people all from different backgrounds. While in Glasgow I met Dan Haskamp and Sam Audsley who treated me with southern hospitality. Sam has traveled many parts of the Lewis and Clark trail by canoe and hopes to venture to Montana for a journey through the Missouri Breaks National Monument later this summer. I always find there is a connection between people who travel by means of paddle power. There seems to be a sense of appreciation for the river and the current that carries you along. Even if you have only met the person for a short time you are able to connect by just talking about the river and paddling. I am sure that members of the Lewis and Clark expedition all shared this similar connection. Even through there were many different personalities and egos, they all shared the common bond of adventure and life on the river. Dan Haskamp is the owner of Main Street Automotive in the town of Glasgow. He comes from a large family of 10 kids and knows everyone in town. I can tell Dan has a deep desire to move west to the mountains while talking with him. He told me many stories about skiing, backpacking and paddling out west. Unfortunately Glasgow doesn't provide these same outdoor opportunities. I joined Dan one evening for dinner in Fayette about 20 miles away. It seemed strange to be moving so fast in his car after traveling not more than 6 mph for the last 7 weeks. The rolling countryside of Missouri had signs of freshly planted soybean crops. Rows of tilled dirt stretched out across the horizon. Glasgow has a long history dating back to Lewis and Clark and later to the Civil War. Union and Confederate troops fought it out along the hillsides of town and many homes received impacts of cannonballs. Dan says you can still see where many of the holes were blown into the sides of the homes. Of the 800 miles of river I have seen so far, Glasgow is the first place where I have seen information of a "River Clean-Up day". A yellow flyer appeared in the local drugstore asking for volunteers. They are hoping to get enough people to clean the garbage along the river before the Lewis and Clark Festival later in June. I hope other towns do the same although it would be nice if they all did it out of respect for the river and not just because a special event is approaching. Hopefully they continue this clean up program on a regular basis. I had a relaxing day in Glasgow having paddled everyday for the last 10 days. I enjoyed my day off. I departed town under a steady wind in hopes of making it to Boonville that afternoon. In many places along the river there was evidence of where the old river channel was before the Army Corp. Of Engineers created their own route for the river. The river seemed much more straight and wider than it does today.

As I approached Boonville, my old friends the Canadian Geese and Great Blue Heron greeted me with many flyovers. The loud honking by the geese brought me out of the heat induced trance I was in. I was very happy and relieved that I traveled from Yankton safely. Monday May 10th: Boonville Public Library. When I have the opportunity to access a public computer I'll try and use as much time to post an update. I don't have to worry about batteries on my computer or satellite phone going dead like I do when sending data from my various camps along the river. I did a brief radio interview for "Ted B" who is a local radio show host for an AM station. An approaching storm forced us to conduct the interview under the bridge over the river giving us a little shelter from the rain. My next updates will be from the Dakotas! This is where Lewis and Clark wintered in the year 1804-1805 living with the Mandan and Hidatsa Indians during a bitter cold winter. The treeless plains of the Dakotas w ill be a stark change compared to the lush green forest of Missouri, Nebraska, Iowa, and Kansas. The fact that there will be less humidity during the long summer days is something to look forward to. I can almost here and see the distant drum beats from the plains Indians, their beat in unison with each stroke of my paddle as I work my way north and west.

I will post a series of photo's to go along with this blog. Cheers!
Norm